Plumeria, also known as frangipani or Hawaiian lei flower, is a deciduous tree or shrub known for its beautiful, fragrant blooms. They come from the Pacific islands but can be found in many backyards. In winter, plumeria trees need different care than during the growing season.
When nights get colder than 50 degrees, they start to go dormant. They can handle cold but not frost. This guide will help keep you prepare and protect your plumeria plants in winter.
Read Demystifying the Plumeria Temperature Range: A Beginner’s Guide to Growing This Tropical Beauty for plumeria temperature tolerances both hot and cold.

The items listed are accompanied by affiliate links, meaning I earn a small commission if a purchase is made through my links. This has no impact on the cost to the consumer.
Plumeria Growth Cycle and Dormancy
Each year plumeria follow a growth pattern. The year starts with the plant coming out of dormancy in the spring. As temperatures rise, new leaves and stems begin to grow. By summer, the plant is in full growth and bloom, displaying its fragrant flowers. As fall approaches, the plant’s growth slows down. When winter hits and temperatures drop, plumeria enters a dormant or rest phase. During this time, it loses its leaves and conserves energy. It waits for warmer spring days and then begins the cycle again.
Preparing for Dormancy
As the temperatures begin to drop and the days shorten, plumeria get ready to enter their dormant phase. In this section we’ll go over the steps you need to take to prepare for winter and why they are important.
1. Stop Fertilizing
- Why It’s Important: As the growing season winds down, plumerias reduce their active growth. Fertilizing during this time can cause new growth that may be tender and susceptible to cold damage.
- What to Do: If you’ve been using a fertilizer, especially one high in nitrogen which promotes growth, start tapering off its use as you approach the end of summer. By early fall, you should cease fertilizing completely.
- I used a slow release fertilizer this year that feeds my trees for six months. By the time my plants are ready to be put in the greenhouse or brought inside the fertilizer should be pretty used up.
2. Reduce Water
- Why It’s Important: Plumerias, in their dormant state, significantly slow down their metabolic processes, including water absorption. Overwatering at this stage can lead to root rot since the water isn’t being effectively absorbed and utilized by the plant.
- What to Do: Begin reducing the frequency of watering as summer transitions into fall. Instead of sticking to a rigid schedule, check the moisture level of the soil. Water only when the top few inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
3. Treating for Pests
- Why It’s Important: Pests like spider mites, scale insects, and whiteflies can hitch a ride indoors if you’re moving your plumeria inside for the winter. They can wreak havoc on all your plants in an indoor environment,
- What to Do: Inspect your plumeria thoroughly. If you notice signs of pests, treat the plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap.
- Preventative Treatments: It’s October here and I’m slowly brining plants into the greenhouse. I’m carefully inspecting and doing preventative treatments in batches as I bring the plants in.
- Repeat treatments may be necessary. Remember, early detection and treatment are key.
4. Preventing Fungal Diseases
- Why It’s Important: The combination of reduced light, cooler temperatures, and potential overwatering in the fall can create an ideal environment for fungal diseases. Conditions like powdery mildew or rust can take hold if the plant isn’t properly cared for.
- What to Do: Regularly inspect your plumeria for any signs of fungal diseases, such as white powdery substances or rust-colored spots on leaves. If you spot any, remove affected leaves and treat the plant with a fungicidal spray. Ensure good air circulation around your plant and avoid watering the leaves directly.
So be sure to prune your plants to provide air flow and apply a preventative fungicide treatment to the plant and the soil prior to storing for the dormant period.

Plumeria Winter Care – Preparing Your for Winter
We got all of the plants in yesterday (10/14/2023) and treated them with GardenSafe Fungicide 3. This will address any issues with pests or potential fungal issues. Over the next few days I’ll be working on trimming and pruning them to improve the airflow. But enough of that, here is how you will know when it’s time to move your plants indoors.
Spotting the Signs of Dormancy
As the days shorten and temperatures drop in late fall, your plumeria will start showing signs of entering its dormant phase. While some of my plants have started to drop leaves, others are completely happy outside.
We have had a couple of nights in 50’s. Next Monday the low forecasted for 43 degrees so I decided better safe than sorry. This caught me a little by surprise this year as it is a bit earlier than past years where I normally have them all in by Halloween.
Gathering Essential Supplies
Before the cold really sets in, there are some supplies you may to consider to protect your trees:
- Frost Cloth: This special cloth is designed to shield plants from cold and frost. Even if you’re in warmer zones like southern California, Florida or on the Texas Gulf Coast having some on hand for unexpected cold snaps is a good idea.
- Mulch: A thick layer of organic mulch, such as straw or wood chips, can act as a blanket, insulating the soil and roots from temperature fluctuations.
- Neem Oil or Insecticidal Soap: The winter season, especially indoor winter care, might invite some pests. Neem oil is a natural remedy that can deter these unwelcome guests.
- Thermometer: Keeping tabs on the temperature, especially if your plumeria is outdoors, will help you determine when it’s time to take protective measures.
Winter Storage Options
If you live in an area where winters are cold or outside of USDA Hardiness Zones 10B-11, you’ll need to find a storage solution for your plumeria. It’s also a good idea to think about supplying plants with additional heat or light sources if you are storing them outside of your home.
Inside your Home
If it’s in a pot, find a sunny spot indoors, perhaps by a south-facing window. If it’s planted in your garden and the winter is predicted to be severe, consider transplanting it to a pot for the winter months.
Be sure to protect plumeria stored indoors from drafts and not have plants too close to a radiator or central heating vent other heat source.
Greenhouse, Garage or Shed
I live in USDA Zone 8 and store my plumeria in my greenhouse. Many of my friend’s store their plants in garages, sheds or whatever they have available. If you are in similar situation, it’s a good idea to have a backup heat source. Many of us found that out the hard way with our rolling power outages in February of 2021.
Here are some additional recommendations:
- Make sure plants are not sitting on a cold garage or basement floor. Keep them up high on a shelf or table. Remember heat rises.
- Protect from drafts, create a makeshift greenhouse or area within your garage or shed where plants will be protected when the door is open.
Here are some of the heaters we have used
I have to add heat to my greenhouse in the winter to keep my plants from getting frost or freeze damage. I’ve experimented with a couple different heaters. I’ve listed those below.
Electric Heater
This milkhouse heater is electric and is a work horse. It has a thermostat and a fan, so you can set it to turn on automatically. While these heaters do have a built-in fan, I had to supplement with an additional fan to prevent cold spots. My greenhouse is 12×20 so, I needed two of these to heat the space.
Ceramic Electric Heater
This is the heater we will be using this winter based on the reviews by other greenhouse owners and the ability to maintain consistent temperatures.
Propane Heater
We bought this heater after the poweroutages and it’s our backup if the power goes out for us and the plants. But propane can be pricey.
Plant Maturity and Storage
The ideal winter storage solution for your plants is influenced by the maturity or age of the plant. Our recommendations for storage of seedlings, young plants and mature plants are detailed below.
Seedlings
These are the tender babies of the plumeria world. They’re just putting down roots and are especially susceptible to cold weather. Seedlings are best kept indoors during the winter months. Place them in a location with bright light but avoid direct sunlight. A spare room or an enclosed porch that stays relatively warm is ideal. They still need a little water, but not much. Make sure the soil remains slightly moist but not soggy.
Young Plants (1-5 years)
These plants are a bit more robust but still need special care to ensure they survive and thrive after winter.
- In-Ground Storage: If you’ve planted your young plumeria in the ground and live in a warmer climate, it can stay outdoors. However, ensure you protect it from frost using frost cloth and mulch to insulate the soil.
- Indoor Storage: In colder climates, it’s a good idea to bring them inside. They’ll benefit from being placed near a window where they’ll receive plenty of light. Be sure to supplement with a grow light to keep them healthy.
- Watering: Reduce watering but keep the soil from completely drying out. Remember, overwatering can lead to root rot.
Important Note: young plants should not be stored bare root, this is also true for potted cuttings that are purchased from garden stores or those that you rooted yourself. These plants haven’t established very extensive root systems yet.
Mature Plants (5+ years)
These seasoned warriors have seen a few winters and can handle a bit more than their younger counterparts.
- In-Ground Storage: In tropical and some temperate regions, mature plumerias can withstand staying outdoors. Just add a layer of mulch to protect the roots and be prepared to cover them with frost cloth on particularly chilly nights.
- Indoor Storage: For those in colder regions, moving mature plumerias indoors might be challenging due to their size. But if you can, they’ll appreciate the warmth.
- Bare Root Storage:
- What Is It? This involves uprooting the plumeria, shaking off the soil from its roots, and storing it without any soil around the roots. It might sound drastic, but mature plumerias can handle this method.
- How to Do It: Once uprooted and cleaned, trim the leaves. Then, let the plumeria air dry for a few days. Then wrap the roots in newspaper or peat moss, and store it in a cool, dark place like an unheated garage or storage shed. Be careful not to store directly on a cold garage floor, but carpet or a mat on he floor. Be sure to check periodically for any signs of rot or disease. In early spring, they can be replanted, and they’ll burst back to life with vigor.
- Watering: If storing indoors with soil, water sparingly throughout the winter, ensuring the soil doesn’t dry out completely. For bare root storage, no watering is needed until replanting in the spring.
Understanding the age and maturity level of your plumeria is pivotal in providing the right winter care. These storage tips catered to the plant’s age ensure that come spring, each plumeria, whether a young sapling or a mature tree, is ready to grace the world with its tropical beauty.
Common Mistakes Gardeners Make In Plumeria Winter Care
Plumerias, with their gorgeous blooms and fragrant scents, are reminiscent of tropical paradises. But when winter rolls around, they need a little extra TLC. Even the most seasoned gardeners can sometimes miss a beat when it comes to plumeria winter care. Let’s explore some common mistakes and, more importantly, how to fix them, ensuring your plumeria emerges from its winter slumber even more vibrant.
1. Overwatering
- The Mistake: Given the reduced activity of a dormant plumeria, it requires less water. Overzealous watering can lead to root rot.
- The Fix: Wait until the top few inches of soil are dry before watering. If you’ve overwatered, consider repotting to prevent rot. Ensure the pot has good drainage.
2. Keeping Them in Cold Spots
- The Mistake: Placing your plumeria in an area prone to cold drafts or sudden temperature drops.
- The Fix: Choose a location in your home that remains consistently above 50°F (10°C). Avoid areas near frequently opened doors or unsealed windows.
3. Neglecting Light Needs
- The Mistake: Not providing enough light during the dormant period, thinking the plant doesn’t need it.
- The Fix: While they may be resting, plumerias still need light. Place them near windows with bright, indirect sunlight. For darker areas, consider using grow lights.
4. Forgetting About Pests
- The Mistake: Overlooking the fact that pests, such as spider mites or mealybugs, can thrive indoors, especially in winter.
- The Fix: Regularly inspect your plumeria for signs of pests. Neem oil or insecticidal soaps can be effective treatments. Ensure proper air circulation to prevent infestations.
5. Continuing to Fertilize
- The Mistake: Continuing regular fertilization even as the plumeria enters its dormant phase.
- The Fix: Stop fertilizing as winter approaches. The plant isn’t actively growing and won’t utilize the extra nutrients, which can lead to fertilizer burn.
6. Misinterpreting Leaf Drop
- The Mistake: Panicking when the plumeria drops its leaves and thinking it’s dying.
- The Fix: Understand that leaf drop is a natural response as the plant goes into dormancy. It’s not a sign of an unhealthy plant. Stay the course with proper winter care.
7. Lack of Proper Air Circulation
- The Mistake: Keeping plumerias in tight spaces without adequate airflow, promoting fungal diseases.
- The Fix: Make sure your indoor space has good air flow. Consider using a small fan and avoid overcrowding plants.
Every gardener, from the newbie with a single pot to the expert with a botanical garden’s worth of plants, can sometimes make mistakes. The key is learning, adapting, and always striving to provide the best care for your plants. With these fixes in your toolbelt, your plumeria will not only survive its winter dormancy but will be ready to bloom brilliantly when the warm weather returns.

Plumeria Winter Care – Conclusion
As winter gets closer, it’s natural to worry about your beautiful plants. However, with proper care they’ll reward you with stunning blooms once warm weather returns.
FAQs on Growing Plumeria
No. While file is a good time to remove dead or damaged branches heavy pruning or cutting back puts the plumeria tree at risk. The branches store energy and nutrients that the plant needs to survive winter and grow in the spring, this will also impact blooming.
Not to mention, the combination of open wounds, cold weather and moisture increase the risk of disease.
Removing leaves is a personal preference. Many people remove the leaves if they are storing bare root. Plumeria trees that are brought indoors can maintain their leaves throughout the winter, giving them a head start in the spring.
Plumeria will begin to prepare for dormancy when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees.
Yes, but ensure they get enough sunlight, or supplement with grow lights, and maintain a consistent watering routine.
Plumeria Winter Care – Related Articles
Sources – Plumeria Winter Care:
